Tuesday, May 29, 2012

Insha'Allah

I get a roommate today! She's getting in at 4 pm today. A short description: she is an Indian-American intern that is working with a UN relief agency in the region. I'm very excited to meet her and move to the top floor apartment.

In other news, Eygpt's first election is complete, with Mohammed Mourssa and Shafiq emerging as the top two candidates. As neither got a 50% majority, they will run again to decide the final winner. Foreign policy withe Egypt will be very interesting if the favourite candidate, Mourssa, ends up as the president. What this spells for women in the region, I'm not sure. How he decides to rule will determine everything.

I can't stress enough the amount of emotion that is occupying political space in the Arab World right now. There is excitement and a sense of nervousness about the times ahead. People point to different historical examples - Algeria, Turkey, Iran - to prove their points. But really, no one knows how this will turn out.

The woman I met today runs an NGO in Jordan that works on lifting discriminatory laws against women in the region. After our interview, she looked at me with the most piercing stare and said,

You know Rishita, this revolution is all for the young people. I am so proud of them. For hundreds of years, we have lived with these governments that constantly oppress us. These young people, they are not like us. They are brave and alive. They are fighting. I am so so so proud to be Arab.

Then she said this:

They [the West] should believe in our case first, as Arab people. We are for freedom and democracy and we are not terrorists. This needs to be believed first. We don’t know what they want from the Arab Spring. We did not have this revolution to live up to their hopes. We are talking about us, as a very strong society and one that deserves our freedom and democracy, like others. 
It reminded me of an experience recounted by the U.S. State Department's ambassador at large for Global Women's Issues. On a trip to Afghanistan in the summer of 2009, she stopped for dinner with a group of Afghan women activists in Kabul. One woman opened the conversation with a plea:
 "Please don't see us as victims, but look to us as the leaders we are."
We have to believe. We have to recognize the strength and good intensions embedded in this revolution. I do believe, as I am sure many others do. I believe so wholeheartedly that I travelled half way across the world to be here.

History is about to be written in the next few years and the people are finally holding the pen. We can only hope for the best and believe. Or as they say in the Middle East, Insha'Allah.

Saturday, May 26, 2012

A pyramid, a story, and more turkish coffee

This weekend I visited a UN gender expert that has been working on women's rights in the Arab region for over 30 years. I knew this would be an interesting meeting when the taxi driver - through an exchange of broken Arabic (me) and broken English (him) - managed to explain to me that taxis do not go into this neighbourhood. I need to write a post here dedicated to the taxi drivers of Jordan. They are the most interesting personalities in the country.

Anyways, I plugged in my iPod to avoid the comments and horn honking that usually resulted in my walking down the street. However, I heard none. This neighbourhood was silent. Looking around, I could finally understand why. The houses around me would put the elaborate ones used in Bollywood to share. They were extravagant, to say the least. When I found my house number (88), I found it to be designed like a pyramid. No jokes, it was a pyramid, a giant one, with a stream of glass windows running down each triangular wall, with a garden filled with hundreds of lovely flowers.

My host greeted me at the door and took me inside to a beautiful home full of Arabic artwork, books and music. We immediately began talking about the Egyptian elections, rooting for Amr Moussa to win and knowing that it was hopeless to wish for this. That definitely broke the ice. Over a strong cup of turkish coffee, she began telling me about her time with the UN.

She heavily criticized my research approach and preyed on my obvious lack of experience in the field. While I was originally mortified, I realized that these comments came from a place of passion and frustration.

I found out that she was originally from Saudi Arabia. So gender equality was not just a social justice issue for her, they defined her story. Girls could no longer be educated beyond the grade level in the country, so she left behind everything she knew at such a young age to travel to Lebanon. She could have chose to do anything in the world, travel far and wide, settle anywhere. However, she has dedicated her entire life to women's issues and the welfare of her country, despite all the persecution and negativity attached to it. It made me reflect on my own situation.

I am 15 000 km away from India, a place plagued with social inequity issues. It's time for me to remember the important things: leave behind all the ambitions of heavy titles and global organizations and focus on the change itself and where I want to work towards it. Not a day goes by when I don't remember India. Perhaps it's time to go back, if not now, very soon and work in a small NGO, one that works directly with the people it's trying to help. It feels like unfinished business. There's something magnetic about it, calling me back. It's a feeling I have to explore for myself.

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Caught amidst History in the Making


As I sit here and type this, Egyptians are out voting for their first president. I so badly want to be right beside them: watching the election booths, hearing the discussions over voting choices, and share in the experience of people feeling political freedom for the first time. I’m glued to my computer screen in Jordan, watching Al-Jazeera’s live blog as it documents citizens’ feelings at some of the voting booths.
Here is a particularly good post: 
Mounira Fawaz, quoted on this blog earlier, was shaking with excitement after casting her vote. With the pinky finger on her right hand dyed with purple ink she told Al Jazeera, "I feel freedom and for the first time my voice and opinion really counts".
The country has recently been filled with candidates’ posters and flyers. The main ones are also visiting cities, meeting citizens and promising to address their grievances. There are even televised debates, both among the candidates and regular citizens. The open discussion and rampant disagreement in the country is a sign that a form of democracy, albeit shaky one, has finally resulted. To hear citizens demanding budgets for healthcare, education, employment, human rights; you can hear that the silence has been broken. I am not an idealist and I am not suggesting that all is well. However, moving aside the reservations regarding their decision, I think it’s important to step back and recognize that they have taken a huge first step. 

The whole Arab world is holding its breath. As I am conducting interviews with women in the region, they are all weary, eagerly awaiting a decision that will have a tangible impact on their fate. The Islamist movement is sweeping the region. As the decision comes out the day after tomorrow, people’s fears will be confirmed or dismissed. Egypt is repeatedly hailed as a leader in the region. Therefore, its decisions will have resounding repercussions for its neighbors and followers. The women in Jordan hope they choose a Muslim moderate, or even the secular candidate, even if he was a part of the previous regime. He has the experience, one says, to focus on the real issues within the country.

It is probably one of the first times in my life that I feel close to a place where history is about to be written. 

Monday, May 21, 2012

Pictures!




I visited the Souk Jara this weekend, which is an open flea market put on by residents in Jordan, every Friday till Ramadan season. The following pictures are from this trip. 



























Thursday, May 17, 2012

And the story begins!


It has been an amazing two days work wise and I think I'm beginning to fall in love with this lovely city. I was able to speak to three women for my research. Oh where do I begin with these interviews! 

The first one was with the director of a prominent development institute in Jordan - I cannot say more for the purpose of confidentiality. There were two things in particular that I remember for popular conversation: her views on the Arab Spring and a barrier she mentioned to women’s advancement. 

First, the Arab Spring. She is extremely frustrated with the West for expecting the Arab Spring to cause a 180 degree shift in the attitudes of Arab countries with regards to women. She made an great historical comparison: remember the World War? The Rosie the Riveter analogy very much describes women’s role in the revolutions. However, just like American women, these Arab females are being asked to go back to their traditional roles. How easily, she said, the West forgets that they too had these struggles. If it took an evolutionary process for us, why are we expecting a revolutionary process in Arab nations? It is a fair question. Are we, once again, guilty of setting a double standard? Well, we do have to learn from the past. That is why we work so hard to preserve it, so we are not doomed to repeat the same mistakes. Let's get it right the first time around this time - that is the whole spirit behind the push.

Second, she cited as a main barrier to development, women themselves. Sometimes, she said, we are our own worst enemies. How true! This, of course, applies to the status of women in the West as well. As this came up, I couldn’t help but remember that eloquent Mean Girls scene, where Tina Fey says: “You have got to stop calling each other bitches and whores. It only makes it okay for guys to call you that.” There is a dichotomy of beauty versus brains, career versus family that we women create for ourselves and this in turn, allows society to categorize us in this way too. Usually, the traditional ‘female’ part of that dichotomy wins. So if we want to see real change, let’s stop talking about Hilary Clinton’s poor choice in headbands, ladies, and focus on her politics. 

The second interview was with a political activist within a women’s NGO in Jordan. This woman was something! She knew little English, but was full of spirit and hospitality. She insisted on a cup of coffee (the norm) and sat me down with her two assistants in a little research center she runs on the side. She’s quite senior, as she had been lobbying for women’s issues for 35 years. She was too nervous to be interviewed and instead, suggested that she respond to the questions via e-mail. And so, instead, we had coffee and chatted in her little sun-filled office, with her two assistants watching us closely. The conversation went from politics, to the Arab Spring, to women, to India, to Jordan, to our families. Her broken English and non-existent knowledge of Arabic did not put up too much of a barrier. Indeed, it added to the flavour of the whole situation. It was something. I felt like I was talking to a war veteran - I suppose she is, in a sense, the veteran of a cold war. 

I felt a bit like Alice having tea with the mad hatter, not in the sense that my host was crazy, quite the contrary in fact. However, the complex stories that fate had to weave to bring those four characters to that table was as formidable as Alice’s situation. Moreover, the rhythm with which the whole thing progressed, and just the quaintness of the entire situation was very much like that tea party. It was both amusing and extremely significant for reasons that are not yet known to me. 

The last interview was with an expert on women and leadership, especially in the Arab World. Her house was beautiful and she had a soft, academic aura that followed her as she led me into her living room. The most important part of this meeting, was the end. We were finished the interview and we began going back and forth about women, in the Arab world and the West. In that conversation, I think I might have begin to formulate some of the connections I was looking for. I will reserve comments on this for the end, when there is more of a story to include. However, the passion that ebbed from that conversation made my eyes sparkle. What different lives the two of us had led, and yet we sat comfortably in her living room, chatting like old friends! The world is small after all. 

An Alien in a World of Familiarity


Today’s morning consisted of a financial fiasco - my ‘rent’ was due today and none of the banks were accepting any of my travelers cheques. Apparently, Jordan had stopped taking them a year ago. Who would’ve guessed? My land lord was not pleased and yelled with displeasure that she asked for the money in cash, not cheques! Her anger was accentuated by her dramatic make-up, which seems to be a theme for women in the Middle East. I personally love it. Anyhow, I told her I would have the money by tonight - how I would manage that, I did not know. 


I escaped my raging landlord and took off into the streets that afternoon for my first day of work. I hesitantly raised my arm to signal a taxi, feeling like some ridiculous New Yorker from Sex and the City as I did. The fact that I decided to wear a black poka-dot top to work didn’t really help the situation. I did not speak Arabic and had to call up Diala, my contact at the Research Center, to give the cab driver directions. How I hate this constant feeling of dependency! I am so used to maneuvering my way around unknown situations through communication. I was counting on that to be my savior on this trip and confidently planted myself here under that notion. I had no idea (naively so) that English was not the regular language of people in the capital city. 


The center is gorgeous and I think this more than anything saved my mood today. Its entrance has a beautiful garden that leads into a building with high ceilings, walls made of coffee colored marble, and glass or dark wood accents. The icing on the cake was the traces of Islamic architecture (minarets) embedded into the design. Of course, who could forget the beautiful courtyard and birds, that left a gentle chirping sound in my office. I can’t wait to take my laptop there and just write. 
As for my colleagues, I feel as though I am infringing upon a tight knit family that all speak the same language and have the same kinds of lifestyles and backgrounds. These people are all in the age bracket of 25-35, have had ‘Western’ educations, and belong to the rich of Jordan. Their manners are polished, their dressing impeccable, and yet all of their conversations are in Arabic. I sat for an hour over lunch, listening to the rise and fall of Arabic around me, without anyone giving me so much as a smile. I concluded they don't really like me very much.

I felt awkward (more than the regular amount, which for me, is saying something) and oddly out-of-place, not only from a cultural point of view, but as a scholarship student, even from an economic point of view. This feeling was furthered by the fact that the Queen and King of Jordan showed up a talk at the center today, and were on first name basis with the crowd. 

I felt like a complete alien, and not the cuddly kind either. I wish this ET could phone home right now. She's in desperate need of a pep talk. 


Foraging for Food


I did not realize until today how crippling a language barrier could be. How am I to spend 3 months in a country that I barely know anything about? I went to pick up groceries today - my first venture out into the world of Jordan. I am slowly realizing that I am in a rich neighborhood - the very privileged of Jordan live here. The women are dressed in fancy clothes with straightened hair and the men in crisp suits. The grocery store was packed with “American Brand” products and an accented mix of Arabic-English speakers. The real contrast is between these people - polished, english speaking, car toting people - and the workers. They seem to be ‘regular’ Jordanians, unsheltered from the comforts that lots of money can buy and experiencing the real culture of the country. Ironically, the most disconcerting part of this trip was seeing so many traces of home in that grocery store. 

It was nerve wracking to ask for directions to sugar/bread and not have anyone understand. It clearly labels me as a foreigner and I am instantly given preferential treatment. This is a common theme in developing countries. Indeed, India is the same way. It reveals much about how the West is perceived in here. As I was coming home from the airport, I remember the cab driver saying, “Is this is where all the rich people in Jordan live. Do you have a house like this (pointing to a huge mansion)?” Not me sir, not me.

It is becoming apparent how much I blow at living on my own and making smart decisions. First, I decided to forage out at 12:00 (heat stroke implied). I filled about 10 bags FULL of groceries and instead of taking a cab home, I decided to walk. The tips of my thumbs are still sore from that decision...I got lost and had to have the security guard of some school track down my homeowner. No one speaks English. That creep asked for my number. I asked him why (Thank you paranoid voice of my mother) and he  just smiled. That didn’t really seem like a good reason to me so I curtly said no and walked away. Anyways, I managed to find my home and upon seeing me, some man that could’ve been my landlady’s husband started yelling at me in Arabic. I must have actually looked like an imbecile, standing there staring at him with my mouth open and a bajillion grocery bags in both hands. 

So here I am, without any semblance of connection to North America, listening to Foster the People, and wondering how I can spend 3 months in a place in which I can barely get groceries on my own…

Beginnings and Connections


I am an Indian born woman with a Canadian passport, in an Austrian airport, on route to the Middle East, all the while reading about an Iranian woman’s literary analysis of Nakobov’s works. The connections between our stories are sometimes apparent and sometimes hidden, but always infinite. Recently, I have become taken by what all this means for the woman. This is, I suppose, the purpose of this trip and my research. Putting aside my literature reviews and the scholarly implications put forth by academics, what I know about this topic comes mainly from my encounters with three women. 

The first is a domestic worker. As a child, I spent my summers at my grandparent’s place situated in a little village in Southern India. It quite typically had its lush green paddy fields and whistling washer-women. Most importantly, it had an invisible line that separated the poor from the rich and the ‘lower’ from the ‘upper’ castes in the village. In other words, all the usual social hierarchies that governed rural India applied. In our home, we had a domestic maid by the name of Baagyam. When I was six, she was a seventy-five. I remember her on our doorstep at the crack of dawn every morning clad in a plain cotton saree and white hair tied back into a neat bun. With a confident resolve, she completed every task ‘male’ or ‘female’ in nature without fail. I remember her strong muscles churning hard lentils to a creamy dough and her toothy grin as she slapped cow manure into fertilizer, but also her soft and silvery voice humming children to sleep. 

Contradictory? Not for her. At seventy-five, she was singlehandedly supporting her children and their children, her drunkard husband completely out of the picture. How she managed to cross the ‘invisible line of caste’ (as Rohinton Mistry calls it) and overcome the humiliation and forbearance that resulted from it, I do not know. As a single woman, she was able to ignore the hostile orthodoxy that was entrenched under the nice overtones of our village. I wish I could have turned on a tape recorder and asked her some questions, like I am going to this summer. Perhaps I would have known how she came to be my most potent symbol of quiet strength in the face of adversity. 

On this trip, I must remember not to cast aside the contradictions as outliers but treat them as careful points of observation for further research. I must draw connections between the contradictions, the Baagyams of the Middle East, because their stories will serve as moulds for systemic changes we are looking to make. 

The next girl is another domestic. My grandparents had left their beloved village to live in a small town and with this, came a new set of workers. I had come back to India for a visit at age 11 and first met Rajia as she was drying dishes - she was my age. Back then, I was a hard Free the Children enthusiast and carried all the simplistic notions of child labour that came with it. As a result, I stubbornly spoke to her mother a few weeks later, demanding that she send her to school. Instead of the simple economic problems I was expecting, her mother lay a wide range of social disasters that would result from her daughter’s schooling. Where would they find a man for an educated woman? She is a ‘mature’ woman now and needs to be protected. Keep in mind this theme of ‘protection’ - it will come up again soon. Even if she goes to school, there are no jobs for people ‘of our kind’. The government does not help us. I would not understand the weight of these problems until much later. Nevertheless, for some reason, our conversation had produced the results I desired and off to school Rajia went that summer. 

A happy ending? Not really. I went back to India when I was seventeen, for a cousin’s marriage. Over lunch one day, I casually asked how Rajia was doing. I was told by a weary uncle that she had been taken out of school a few months later and married off at fifteen. She was abused by her husband and came home soon after the marriage. Her parents were once again, looking for a husband for her. When I met Rajia that summer, she seemed did not seem phased by her tragic life. She arched her hip in a way that I never could to hold babies tightly to her side and watched black and white movies on her TV set with an unblinking stare. Perhaps her innocence prevented her from realizing what had happened.

 What I took away from this story is that the problems we seek to address are always more complicated than we intend them to be. If we are careless enough to turn our back on the people we help, their lives will go back to the way they were. 

The third woman was a Lebanese Canadian, at a university booth labeled “Women and Islam”. The booth was handing out little yellow Korans and had pamphlets about the inclusive nature of Islam and Women. Behind this display stood a girl around my age, a student at University in a dull pink chador. I asked her to explain this to me, pointing to the array of material that had been dedicated to women and Islam. She immediately proceeded to tell me that wearing the Chador was her choice as a woman. No one forced her to wear it and she felt even more free with it on.

 I asked her why that was. She responded with the fact that it kept away wandering eyes and further that women need to be protected. 

I asked her why women needed to be protected. She looked dumbfounded for a second, as if no one had ever asked her this stupid question. She stumbled for the right words for a few seconds, finally she formed a vague answer, casting men as predators and women as their prey. The grand theme of protection has always comes up. It is what the Islamic Public of Iran uses as an excuse to carry out its agenda against women and it is what my parents might use to get me to stick to my curfew.
Protection from what is the real question. Perhaps I am putting words in this girl’s mouth, or perhaps she really had meant to say that it is our virginity that needs to be protected. This certainly seemed to be what Rajia’s mother was referring to when she refused to send her daughter to school. I am not questioning her choice to wear the chador - that is entirely up to her. However, there appears to be a sexist bias within her that she does not fully understand. That begs this question: is her choice really a choice? Is her decision informed? I curtly thanked her for her time and realized what I will be facing as I conduct my research this summer. How can I, as a Canadian woman, possibly begin to remain objective at these blatantly patriarchal attitudes? 

When I shared this dilemma with a brilliant professor at Western, he told me to think of myself as a child looking at a fish in a round bowl. You can observe the fish but you cannot touch it. He told me to draw upon my own experiences, as a Canadian woman, an Indian to empathize with these people so they may feel comfortable sharing their stories. In essence, don’t rock the boat. Another professor, quite a strong female at the Western history department, told me she paraded around the Middle East dressed in whatever she wanted. What does it teach them if we conform to their ways? You represent something, she told me. Then as if catching herself, she said, but I am an old woman and you are a beautiful, young girl. I have not decided what stance I will take but I think my experience limits me to the fish bowl option. 

Really, the question that I wish to derive from these experiences is how are all these women connected?  How does the girl at Western University compare to the strong Bagyam? Why does she appear to carry the same notions as Rajia’s uneducated mother? How will a world that has largely reduced the essence of women to their chastity move forward? And how do I, as a Canadian, a ‘researcher’ (I use the term loosely, because my qualifications hardly deserve the term), a woman, go about searching for the answers to these questions? I suppose this is really the purpose of my trip, my research, and if I may be so bold, perhaps even my life.